Escape from Paradise with Ingrid Lemme-Chalut
Beyond Paris: Discovering Honfleur's Hidden Charm
First published in print from Montauk to Manhattan, in the November issue of The Montauk Sun
Edited by Riki Fenhoff
As the ms Rotterdam, Holland America's flagship, docked in Le Havre, my husband Marcus and I faced a choice. While many passengers eagerly disembarked for a day-long excursion to Paris, we had already experienced the City of Light a couple of years prior. Instead, we opted to explore the charming coastal town of Honfleur, a decision that would prove to be an unforgettable adventure steeped in history, culture, and the undeniable charm of Normandy.
The morning was chilly and rainy, a far cry from the idyllic weather we had grown accustomed to on our transatlantic journey. But as the crowds rushed to depart, I reveled in the warm solitude of the Green House Spa.
With HAL's 'Taste of Normandy' tour not commencing until 1pm, I indulged in some much-needed me-time, leaving Marcus to brave the elaborate selections of the Lido buffet for breakfast. As I lay on the heated lounge chair, the soft patter of raindrops against the panorama windows was the perfect accompaniment to a soothing morning of pampering.
When Le Havre slowly came into sight that morning, we were prepared for our excursion. The phrase 'Taste of Normandy' had conjured images of gastronomic delights, but soon we realized that in this case, 'taste' meant something altogether different – Calvados, the renowned apple brandy of the region.
A hurried lunch at the Lido seemed in order before embarking on the spirits-focused tour, which was just one part of our half-day bus excursion.
Le Havre itself is a major port city in the Seine-Maritime department in the Normandy region of northern France. Founded by King Francis I in 1517, the city and port were inscribed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2005 due to its unique post-WWII reconstruction and architecture.
Our journey took us first through the picturesque Normandy countryside to the quaint village of Le Breuil en Auge, home to the Drouin distillery. Nestled among 17th-century half-timbered houses, this family-run operation had been perfecting the art of Calvados production for generations.
As the owner spoke about the history of the spirit, from the specific apples used, to the careful aging process, Marcus sampled the fine liqueur, his eyes lighting up with appreciation. He seemed to gain a deeper understanding of the craftsmanship and rich heritage behind this beloved Norman spirit with each sip from his glass.
Following the distillery tour, we boarded the bus once more, bound for the historic town of Honfleur. This charming enclave holds a special place in the annals of art history, having inspired the likes of Monet, Courbet, and Boudin. Despite the overcast skies, Honfleur's beauty with its well-preserved 16th and 17th-century architecture shone through, captivating us as we embarked on a guided walking tour through its narrow, cobblestone streets.
The crown jewel of Honfleur is undoubtedly its picturesque harbor, Le Vieux Bassin. The old port, with its narrow entrance and surrounding tall, narrow buildings, is a marvel of medieval engineering. The facades of the ancient houses, clad in tiles in the traditional Norman style, added to the area's undeniable charm. As we strolled along the waterfront, we discovered a lively promenade lined with cafes and bustling with activity, despite the gloomy weather. The sound of seagulls filled the air as we took in the sights and sounds of the historic harbor.
Our exploration revealed a plethora of historic landmarks, including the 15th-century Church of Saint Etienne, now home to the town's maritime museum, and the impressive salt storage buildings, or 'Greniers à sel', which dated back to the 17th century. These structures, with their remarkable wooden roofs, stood as testament to Honfleur's rich maritime past, when the town was a major player in the French naval fleet. Our guide regaled us with stories of the town's history, from its role in the Hundred Years War to its influence on the French Renaissance. But the true pièce de résistance was the Church of Saint Catherine, the largest wooden church in France.
Constructed at the end of the Hundred Years War, when stone was in short supply, the church's wooden framework was reminiscent of an upturned ship's hull, allowing for an abundance of natural light to flood the interior. Its separate bell tower, too heavy for the church to support, added to the building's unique charm. As we sat in the pews, taking in the beauty of the church, I could almost hear the echoes of centuries past, the whispers of the sailors and fishermen who had once worshipped here.
Le Bistrot à Crêpes
With our guided tour complete, we were granted an hour of free time to wander Honfleur's narrow, cobblestone streets. We soon stumbled upon Le Bistrot à Crêpes, a delightful eatery on a corner lot by the harbor. Despite the bustling atmosphere, we were greeted with warm smiles and efficient service. Over steaming cups of strong Darjeeling tea and a plate of delectable apricot crêpes, we felt as though we had discovered a hidden gem. The crêpes, thin and delicate, melted in our mouths as we savored each bite.
As our time in Honfleur drew to a close, we reluctantly boarded the bus for the return journey to Le Havre. The drive took us across the impressive Normandy Bridge, which spanned the Seine estuary, offering breathtaking views of the river below. As the ms Rotterdam set sail once more, we reflected on our day in Honfleur. The 'Taste of Normandy' tour had been a resounding success, introducing us to the region's rich history, renowned spirits, and captivating charm.
Though Paris is undoubtedly a marvel, we knew we had made the right decision in exploring this lesser-known gem of the Normandy coast. As we sailed into the sunset, we toasted over dinner to the unforgettable memories we had forged in the heart of western Europe, with the spirit of Normandy still burning brightly in our hearts.
Until next month from another interesting location.
Yours in travel …..
Ingrid Lemme-Chalut
Escape From Paradise, Travel-writer & Blogger www.EscapeFromParadise.net
Award-winning TV Host, Publisher, Travel Writer www.MontaukSun.com
Ambassador for www.Seven-Stars.com & 15 Emmy award winning www.aTasteofHistory.org
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